The Tartans of the Clan Buchanan

The association of tartan patterns with a specific clan or family is a relatively new tradition. While tartan cloth has been woven in Scotland since the 17th century, it was not until the early 1800’s that clan names were attached to specific patterns. It seems to have simply been a function of fashion, as tartan and all things “Highlander” became popular throughout the United Kingdom during Victorian times. Several of the Buchanan Tartans were identified and named very early in this process and have come to be among the most popular tartans ever made. Today, tartans are a vivid symbol of Scottish clans and families as well as universities, sports teams, business and individuals.

Symmetrical and Asymmetrical Tartan: There are only a few asymmetrical tartans that are registered - the Buchanan Clan Tartan being one, and probably the most popular. Most tartans are symmetrical in design. If you would like to understand the difference go to Symmetrical and Asymmetrical Tartans.

For a detailed history of the Buchanan Tartan written by Peter MacDonald, renowned tartan historian,
please download his article The Buchanan Tartans

History of Buchanan Tartans

History of Scottish Tartans

Tips for Selecting and Wearing your tartan

2 OFFICIAL CLAN TARTANS

The Buchanan

Asymmetric Sett in Modern colours

If you want to declare your allagiance to Clan Buchanan, then the Buchanan Modern is the tartan for you

Officially endorsed by the Chief of Clan Buchanan. Listed on the SRT#151

What makes it different are the brilliant colors and the asymmetrical design. In the Tartan Register it is simply called “Buchanan” with this notation “In their 1850 book 'The Clan and Family Tartans of Scotland' W.&A. Smith of Mauchline wrote: The pattern here given seems to be universally considered the genuine Buchanan Tartan and we know that it is worn by Archibald Buchanan Esq, of Catrinebank, Ayrshire, whose father's name is identified with one of the first cotton manufactories established in Scotland with Arkwright's improvements.' The woven sample in the 1880 Clans Originaux agrees with this sett.”

↓ Acceptable variations

Tartans can vary in shade and wii be considered a derivation of the original. Whether a product of the dye, manufacturer proclivities, website colour variations, age or harmless errors over time, these tartans are considered acceptable, provided they follow the Sett (thread order) and colours (eg, red could be pale or dark red)

**Buchanan in Ancient Colors**
The sett and thread count is the same as that of the Modern. The choice of dyes is intended to replicate those found in nature. The blues, reds, greens and yellows are softer and not as brilliant, but the distinctive asymmetrical pattern is the same.

ctst-bcn-w-buchanan-weathered-strome-tartan-front-72dpi-rgb.jpg — **Buchanan Old weathered**

**Buchanan reproduction**
As listed on Lochcarron

**Buchanan 1907**
It seems to be stocked by DC Dalgliesh and listed on the Scottish Register of Tartans.

**Buchanan - Muted**
As listed on Strathmore

**Buchanan in Old Colours**
As listed on Strathmore

**Buchanan - Wilsons**
**SRT#4571**. This is the earliest of the Buchanan tartans, it was one of Wilsons of Bannockburn’s Fancy Patterns which dates to c.1800 when it was woven in a small setting. It is not known what Wilsons called it at the time, but by 1838 they were referring to a variation of the design as Buchanan and so we may conclude that it was probably their original name for it too.
There is a c.1800-10 cloak of this tartan in the collection of the National Museum of Scotland. The tartan is unusual in being an asymmetric design and for having a large amount of yellow, an unusual feature before the Sobieski designs of the 1840’s. The yellow, red and green ground are of equal size, unlike later examples where the red and green are roughly twice the size of the yellow.

**Buchanan - Antique**
As listed on Clan, by Scotsweb

The Buchanan of Leny

Symmetric Sett in Modern colours

As worn and officially endorsed by the Chief of Clan Buchanan.

This is a version of the setting given by the Smibert, 1850 made for John Michael Baillie-Hamilton Buchanan, now Chief of the Name Buchanan. The exact date it was adopted is unknown and so given a 2000 date for archiving purposes.

↓ Acceptable variations

**Buchanan of Leny – Muted**
**SRT#171**. This is the symmetrical or balanced version of Wilsons’ original tartan. It is taken from the scales in James Logan’s The Scottish Gael pub. 1831. Logan obtained the majority of his specimens from Wilsons but comparison of his scales with their records shows that he did not understand how to record a tartan. The scales contain a number of transcribing errors of which the Buchanan is one. He failed to note that the tartan was asymmetrical and his method of recording therefore led to this erroneous version. That said, the design was recorded by Thomas Smibert (1850) with blue in place of light blue and a variation later adopted/recognised as Buchanan of Leny (#33).

**Buchanan Old Sett in Ancient Colors**
This symmetrical pattern comes from the old MacGregeor-Hastie collection in the Scottish Tartans Society archive. The pattern is available in a variety of color palettes such as weathered and antique. A variation of this tartan is known as the Leny Tartan and is worn by the Chief of the Clan Buchanan as he is descended from the Buchanan of Leny Cadet Branch.
This example is listed on Locharon

**Buchanan of Leny – Weathered**
As listed on Clan, by Scotsweb

ACCEPTED CLAN TARTANS (6)

While not Official Clan Tartans, these are accepted and recognised as Buchanan; and should be worn with pride and prestige

Buchanan Hunting in Modern Colours

From Scott Adie collection, a book of manufacturers' samples dated 1850 and thought to represent the tartans available for purchase between 1840-50. A Lochcarron weavers’ note say this version was lost and resurrected in the 1960s by a US company since when it has become a strong contender for official Buchanan Hunting. On the basis of the Lochcarron note this is given a 1960 date for archiving purposes.

↓ Acceptable variations

**Buchanan Hunting – Muted**
From the House of Edgar

**Buchanan Hunting – Navy**
From the House of Edgar. Details from a Necktie produced by Botany CA, USA. 1930/40. It uses navy instead of black

ctst-bch-a-buchanan-hunting-ancient-strome-tartan-front-72dpi-rgb.jpg — **Buchanan Ancient Hunting**

Buchanan Blue

A 21st century fashion version by Lochcarron of Scotland. This is the original Wilsons’ setting rendered in blues and browns.

Buchanan Dress

SRT#608. A fashion tartan by Pringles of Inverness that was popular with highland Dancers in the 1980’s.

Buchanan Hunting - Ancient

SRT#604. From Tartan: the Highland Textile by James Scarlett, 1991 where he said of it “Presented by Sir Charles Buchanan, 1955, to Highland Society of London.” Scarlett noted that it derives from the Vestiarium Scoticum sett of the Fraser and therefore bears a marked resemblance to Hunting Fraser.

Buchanan Dress Blue

SRT#1672. Date 1980.

One of a number of dress tartans produced by Hugh Macpherson, a kiltmaker in Edinburgh, in the late 1970’s/early 1980’s intended for dancing and other informal occasions. It is a colour change on the Vestiarium sett (The Dress, Red) and was woven by D. C. Dalgliesh Ltd.

Buchanan Dress, Red

SRT #1261. Date: 1842

In their Vestiarium Scoticum, the Sobieski Stewart brothers give a completely different sett from the accepted form. They said that they had discovered a 16th century manuscript which contained the tartan patterns, this claim was later disproved. There is a description of this tartan in their unpublished manuscript, 1829, in which they made up the majority of the tartans, including this one.

It is sold commercially as Buchanan Dress, Red although never accepted as a clan pattern.

COMMEMORATIVE TARTAN

Inauguration Tartan

Restricted for the exclusive use of the Buchanan family.
Created by Lucy Buchanan

This tartan was created for the new Buchanan Clan Chief's Inauguration in October 2022 as a colourful option to wear at the event and to use for different items related to the event. The colours used in this tartan are a twist on the colours found in the Buchanan tartan: forest green is now a deep turquoise; yellow is a coral shade and red is a bright pink.

Registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans #13357.

INDIVIDUALS TARTAN

We include these on this list as they’re featured on the SRT, but would obviously not be available for purchase or wear…

Buchanan, John & Isabella

**SRT#7351**. Designed by Graham Robieson of Dunfermline to commemorate his aunt & uncle. Woven by Geoffrey (Tailor) Highland Crafts of Edinburgh.

Chef Buchanan

**SRT#12099**. Designed for David Buchanan as a promotional design for his commercial persona as the 'Kilted Chef'. Not really a Buchanan tartan and as this tartan cannot be offered for sale or woven unless specifically authorised by the copyright holder David Buchanan it essentially falls outside of the authority of the chief.

There are many more to be found in the Scottish Register of Tartans. Weavers in Scotland have also created a number of popular variations including Buchanan Autumn, Buchanan Blue and other fashion tartans. Some can be found at Locharron, House of Edgar and ScotlandShop. And of course you can always use your browser’s search engine to discover more.

The official Register of Tartans:
the registration of tartan designs and the policy surrounding that function.

UNAUTHORISED

These tartans have at one time or another been attributed to Clan Buchanan, but we deny that these have anything to do with our clan.
More than likely just manufacturers trying to exploit the immense popularity of the Buchanan name and our clan size....

While they may be beautiful, they are just not ‘Buchanan’. We can’t help it if everybody wants to be a Buchanan.